31
Jul

The name Asscher has been attached to many of the diamond industry’s major moments. It’s a name associated with some of the largest diamonds in the world, a name that’s seen it’s share of dark times, and one responsible for a diamond cut that came to symbolize an era. It’s a name with more than one story to tell.

Like all such tales, the origins of the House of Asscher fall onto the shoulders of just one man, master cutter Joseph Isaac Asscher. In 1854 Asscher, already a known entity in the relatively small diamond industry, decided to start the I.J. Asscher Diamond company. That company bore the name of Asscher’s son, Isaac Joseph, and foreshadowed the close ties that the Asscher family would have with the diamond industry.

The founding of I.J. Asscher happened at a poor time. In the company’s first few years of operation, diamond mines around the world started to go dry. The shrinking number of active mines pushed the diamond industry into a recession the likes of which it had never seen before. The Amsterdam diamond industry was largely decimated, and the Asscher’s watched as other cutting, cleaving, and polishing houses closed up shop. By 1870, a mere sixteen years after the founding of I.J. Asscher, the flow of uncut diamonds had shrunk to a mere 5000 carats for the year. At that rate, the Asscher’s were holding out for a miracle as much as they were holding onto their business.

Holding out proved to be a wise decision. The year 1870 saw the famed first South African diamond strike, an act that flooded Amsterdam with diamonds and saw the creation of De Beers by none other than Cecil Rhodes. With Isaac at the helm, the I.J. Asscher company jumped into action, helping Rhodes’ new company to host the original diamond sights and breathing new life back into the ailing Amsterdam diamond markets.

The unexpected wealth of diamonds assisted to move the I.J. Asscher Company towards becoming a very influential name in the Amsterdam diamond market. De Beers personally requested the Asscher house to cut what was, at the time, the largest diamond ever – the 995.2 carat Excelsior diamond. The titular Asscher, who had remained at the company’s helm into the early years of the twentieth century, passed away just months before the Excelsior diamond was delivered to his company.

With Isaac’s death, the duty of handling the Excelsior diamond fell onto the shoulders of his eldest son, Joseph Asscher. Joseph had made a name for himself as a diamond cleaver and innovator within the company and took that expertise to the cleaving of the nearly 1000 carat gem, successfully rendering several large pear-shaped, marquise, and round diamonds. In 1905, Joseph was tasked with cleaving an even larger diamond – the Cullinan, a stone weighing more than three times that of the Excelsior and who’s stones went on to become part of the Bright Crown Jewels.

The history of the Asscher house wasn’t to be made by large stones, though. No, that path actually predated the cleaving of Excelsior and relates to a patent filed by Joseph in December 1902. This particular patent was for a square cut diamond with chopped corners, a three-step crown, and a seven-step pavilion. The design, which presented a notably small table, allowed for a marked amount of reflected light, thus a sound measure of brilliance.

Over the early parts of the twentieth century, Joseph Asscher continued to refine what was quickly becoming known as the Asscher Cut Diamond. He eventually reduced the steps in the crown to two or three cuts, and the pavilion to a mere three or four steps. The modifications to the Asscher cut increased the overall brilliance of the stone.

As Joseph was modifying his own diamond cut, the rest of the world was being swept up into the Roaring Twenties. Art Deco became the art style of the day, daring angles were being set off with grand sweeping curves, and the dramatic cut of the Asscher diamond not only fit into this design aesthetic – it came to exemplify it.

In 1936, Joseph Asscher, together with his brother Abraham, decided to officially change the name of the family diamond business from that of their father to the Asscher Diamond Company. For the newly named company, things seemed on the way up. The dark clouds brewing in Germany, however, would soon argue otherwise.

Despite a declaration of neutrality, the Nazi war machine officially began the Battle of the Netherlands on May 10th, 1940. The Dutch army put up a strong resistance and were able to stave off the invaders for 5 days. Those five days, which saw Rotterdam nearly destroyed by firebombing, were almost kind compared to the fate which stood before the Amsterdam diamond industry, the vast majority of which were Jewish.

The Asscher Company’s diamonds were quickly seized by the Nazis while those who worked there were shuttled away towards concentration camps. The concentration camps weren’t kind to the House of Asscher. Only two members – Abraham’s sons Joop and Louis – survived internment. Adding insult to injury, the patent which Joseph had filed protecting the Asscher Cut Diamond expired. At the end of World War II, the Asscher Diamond Company was on its last legs.

The period following the war was one of tenuous reconstruction for the once powerful Asscher family. Luckily, the De Beers business was able to lend a hand, giving the Asschers with rough diamonds and access to the company's diamond sights. With this help, the Asschers were able to gain some of the strength that they had before, returning to their status as a first rate diamond cutting company, but the diamond shine seemed to be missing.

The 1980s saw that luster returning. After more than a century in operation, the Asscher Diamond Company was the recipient of the last Royal title handed out by Queen Juliana of the Netherlands before her abdication of the throne. The title brought about the third and final name change to the house of Asscher, recreating the company as the Royal Asscher.

That title was just the start of the Asscher return to glory. Just as the company has gone through three name changes, the Asscher invented diamond cut was slowly starting in on its third innovation. In 2001, nearly a hundred years since the patenting of the initial Asscher cut diamond, the Royal Asscher Diamond company released the Royal Asscher cut diamond. The new cut is a scientifically guided improvement on Joseph Asscher's first design, enlarging the diamond to a incredible 74 facets. For the Asscher family, which still remains a family affair, the new cut seems to represent both a new chapter in the family’s history and an homage to days of past.

Jill Renee- This article is provided by DanforthDiamond.com a leading authority on wedding rings, engagement rings and fine jewelry. Danforth Diamond provides wisdom and advice to help you choose the right ring at the right price. Visit DanforthDiamond.com or call 877.404.RING

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30
Jul

When you sit down and envision a pearl necklace, what pops up in your head? Chances are, it is a perfectly matched strand of round, vibrant pearls- and if so, they are the famous Akoya saltwater pearl! Ever since Mikimoto revolutionized the glamorous world of jewelry by commercializing the first cultured Akoya pearls, this beautiful gem has gained attention and won the hearts of people around the world.

 

The cultured pearl was born out of Japan during the 1900’s as the result of many years of researching through various methods by three Japanese men: Nishikawa Mikimoto, Tatsuhei Mise and Tokishi Nishikawa. Experimenting independently on various nucleation methods with the Pinctada martensii oyster (the indigenous saltwater oyster that produces Akoya pearls) the researchers each found the surgical nucleation techniques that will force the oyster to create a pearl- this is the same technique used to this very day by nucleation technicians worldwide, known as the Nise-Mishekawa method. However, it was Mikimoto who used his business savvy to market the new pearls worldwide, and sparked a love affair that is still going strong with jewelry lovers everywhere.

 

For years the Japanese maintained a monopoly on the Akoya pearl trade, guarding their cultivation and processing techniques jealously. These people have been revered for being the big players in pearls; the Japanese pearls are known to be the top pearls to be found. Harvest periods (the amount of time that the oyster was allowed to secrete nacre over the nucleus) were approximately 3-5 years per pearl, ensuring thick, lustrous nacre layers that gave the pearls their renowned glow and shine. It also made them much more durable and able to resist wear on the nacre brought about by exposure to cosmetics, sweat, acids and perfumes.

 

However, as with any monopoly, the hey-day would not last forever. In order to satisfy a growing demand for their wonderful pearls- which had quickly staked their place as a staple of every woman’s wardrobe throughout the 1940’s and 50’s- the Japanese began cutting their growth times in order to accommodate the burgeoning market’s requirements, and quality began to suffer. Also, pollution and disease wreaked havoc and played a large part in the decline of Japanese pearl quality. With an eye toward the future, the Japanese have begun to culture larger pearls measuring over 8.0mm almost exclusively, focusing their efforts on maintaining their position as a leader, and the best source for gem-quality cultured pearls today.

 

China began culturing Akoya pearls as well starting in the 1960’s, although quality was acknowledged to be quite inferior to that of their Japanese neighbors. However, the Chinese pearl farmers learned what it took to become successful in an industry that was considered to be unshakeable. Concentrating their efforts on perfecting the smaller pearl sizes of 4.0mm to 8.0mm- as they have not yet mastered culturing the larger sizes that Japan is renowned for.  Using much cheaper labor and materials than that of Japan, and adopting a wiser, more long-term approach in terms of pearl quality and reputation, China has proved that it is a force to be reckoned with in the pearling world.

 

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29
Jul

Restored Rolex Submainer

09/30/1953 – The vision of Rolex to create a watch that could carry on thousands of feet under the ocean materialized when an experimental watch known as the “Deep Sea Special” was fastened to the outside of Professor Auguste Piccard’s famous bathyscaphe FNRS-2. It was successfully tested to a depth of 10,336 feet on this date. This success allowed Rolex to introduce the world’s first divers’ watch commercially. This watch was named “The Rolex Submariner”. All the early Submariner models namely the 6200, 6204 and 6205 introduced during 1950s were highly publicized.

However, Rolex wanted to push its limits further and come up with something even more imposing. In fact, it became successful in its endeavor when Piccard’s new bathyscaphe, the Trieste made its journey to the world’s deepest ocean floor, the Challenger Deep of the Marianas Trench on January 23, 1960. This time, the Rolex model 7205/0 known as “Piccard” also accompanied it and successfully withstood pressures at a depth of 35,798 feet or 11,000 meters (during both its descent and ascent). With this, Rolex made its name in the world of reliable diver’s watches. The media press applauded the eminence of “Piccard”. It became the news buzz of that day. 

Today, Rolex has to its credit the popular Submariner and the Sea-Dweller models, meant for deep sea  divers. A handful of companies have attempted to produce watches that match the perfection and accuracy of this waterproof watch.. A message from Rolex Geneva in “Keeping in time with Oceanography” states , “The history of Rolex is intimately tied to mans conquest of the ocean.”

 

After many tests, Rolex introduced the Submariner at the 1954 Basel Watch Fair. The first production model, available for sale to the public that same year, was the reference 6204. The 6204 looked almost identical to a similar Rolex watch, the Turn-O-Graph reference 6202. The reference 6204 was water resistant to 600 feet, and used the Rolex Caliber A260 movement.

Reference 6200 lived only a short life. The watch was produced in 1954 only, and housed the caliber A296. The Rolex Research and Development department must have been processing these watches many years before official introduction, and the Rolex Submariner appears in the underwater documentary “Le monde du silence” in 1953. Thus IMHO the first Submariner to be produced by RWC was the Model 6200. The younger reference number adds substance to the logic.

The Rolex Submariner, introduced in the early 50’s, laid down the tracks upon which most of their competitors would follow. From the rotating bezel, (used to gauge air-time when submersed), to the flip lock clasp and extension link (to wear outside a wetsuit with the minimum of fuss) – all Rolex innovations.

Rolex created this model as a lasting standard in the business community. The company with a first to market advantage with a new product typically wins. It is unimportant at that stage if the product has design faults or it does not live up to the guarantees made because these could be dealt with the introduction of a new and improved product. Remember the George Foreman Grill, Microsoft, and Windows.

For commercial reasons they opted to hold back the ref. 6200 in favor of the Submariner ref. 6204 which had a slimmer case and a smaller winder. They deduced that the world was not ready for a thick cased large winder Rolex Submariner. This is the watch that would become famous from the James Bond movies also. Check out October 2003 issue of International Wrist Watch, page 83 for the complete story.

Below is a quick breakdown of the models since 1953 in the Submariner line by Rolex:

  • 6200 – Original Submariner
    • Launched in 1953.  Depth rated to 200m (660 ft)  with an 8mm crown.Crown guard and Depth rating were not found on this dial.  Submariner not printed on dial. Dial very much alike to Explorer style dials of same period.  Non-Chronometer A296 movement with 18 Jewels.  Larger case than the 6204 or 6205.  Larger crown marked Brevet.
    • Updated in 1955 – The Mercedes hands.  Larger case than the 6536 or 6538.
  • 6204 – Launched in two versions
    • Launched in 1954.  Depth rated to 100m (330 ft) with a 6mm crown.Crown guard and Depth rating were not found on this dial.  Submariner printed on dial.  Dial revised from 6200.  Used the upgraded non-chronometer A260 movement with 18 Jewels.  Smaller than the 6200.
    • Updated in 1954.  Model name “blacked-out.”
  • 6205
    • Launched in 1954.  Depth rated to 100m (330 ft) with a 6mm crown.  No crown guard and no depth rating on dial.Model name not visible on dial.  Dial revised from 6200.Adopted the upgraded A260 movement.  Same size as the 6204.  Smaller than the 6200
    • Updated in 1955.  Depth rating now printed on dial (white).
  • 6536
    • Launched in 1955.  Upgrade of the 6205 model.Depth rated to 330 ft (100m) also had the 8mm crown.Crown guard and Depth rating were not found on this dial.  Submariner printed on dial.  First time use of the Mercedes hands.  Movement upgraded to the non-chronometer 1030 with 25 Jewels.
    • Updated in 1956.  No crown guard however depth rating now printed on dial (white).   First time Bezel contained markers for first 15 minutes.
  • 6536/1
    • Launched in 1956.  Depth rated to 100m (330 ft) with a 8mm crown.  No crown guard with depth rating printed on dial (white).  Model name also present on dial.  Chronometer 1030 movement with 25 Jewels.Bezel with markings for the first 15 minutes.  Triangle on Bezel painted red.
  • 6538 – James Bond Submariner – the first of many Bond Movies the watch would appear in
    • Launched in 1955 with the movie Dr No - Fleming’s British Secret Service Agent – 007 – played by Sean Connery.  Upgrade of the 6204 model.  Depth rated to 100m (330 ft) with the 6mm crown.Crown guard and Depth rating were not found on this dial.  Model name present on dial.Operated with the upgraded A260 movement.
    • Updated again in 1956.  Depth rated to 200m (660 ft) with 8mm crown.  No crown guard with depth rating printed on dial (white).  Upgraded to the 1030 movement.  Case upgraded to same size as the 6200 (larger).
    • Updated in 1956.  ‘Officially Certified Chronometer’ now painted on dial.
  • 5508
    • Launched in 1958.  Upgrade to the 6536/1 model.  Depth rated to 100m (330 ft) with 6mm crown.  No crown guard and depth rating on always printed on dial.  Model name printed on dial.  Upgraded to the new Chronometer 1530 movement.
    • Updated in 1964.Luminous markers not encased by a circular border.
  • 5510
    • Launched in 1958.  Upgrade to the 6200 model.  Depth rated to 200m (660 ft) with the 8mm crown.  No crown guard and depth rating printed on dial.  Submariner printed on dial.Fresh Chronometer 1530 movement.
    • Updated in 1964.  Printing on dial changed to white.
  • 5512
    • Launched in 1959.Rated down to 200m (660 ft) with 8mm crown.  Crown guard.Depth rating marked on dial.  Chronometer.’Officially Certified Chronometer’ etched on dial.  Submariner printed on dial.  New 1560 Chronometer movement.
    • Updated in 1965.  Depth rating to 660 ft (200m) with 8mm crown. Superlative added to printing on dial.
  • 5513 – James Bond Submariner (Live and Let Die)Sean Connery model
    • Launched in 1962.Rated down to 200m (660 ft) with 8mm crown.  Crown guard. Depth rating printed on dial.  Non-Chronometer.  1530 movement.Dial printed with the word “Swiss”.
    • Updated in 1963.  Non-Chronometer 1520 movement.  Swiss T<25 printed on dial.
    • Navy model launched in 1968.  Soldered strap bars.  Large hour and minute hands.Written above depth rating was a large T to explain that luminous material was made from tritium.
  • 5517
    • Launched in 1971 for the British Marines.  Depth rated to 660 ft (200m) with 8mm crown.  Crown guard.  Crown with triple-lock.  Bezel with 60 minute markers.  Soldered strap bars.  Large hour and minute hands.Large T written above depth rating to indicate luminous material as tritium.
  • 1680
    • Launched in 1966.  Depth rated to 660 ft (200m) with 8mm crown.  Crown guard.Depth rating (in feet) printed on dial.  Chronometer.  New 1575 Chronometer movement with Date.  Raised and flat crystal.  Submariner printed in red.
    • Updated in 1972.  Crown with triple-lock added.Depth rating (in feet) printed on dial.  Chronometer.  All dial lettering printed in white.
  • 16800
    • Launched in 1982.  Depth rated to 1000 ft (300m) with 8mm crown.  Crown guard.  Crown with triple-lock.Depth rating printed on durable dial.  Chronometer.  New 3085 Chronometer movement with Date.  Low-profile sapphire crystal.  All dial lettering printed in white.

This guide can help you understand the vision & passion behind the Rolex Submariner series. The challenge this watch faced on the market confirmed Rolex as the ultimate in captivating the human spirit. Once again mankind triumphed through ingenuity and perseverance in this challenge. This blog on watches can give you even more information and video tutorials. Give your feedback and share your knowledge of the Rolex brand and other premium watch lines.

 

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28
Jul

Can you tell the difference between these Rolex Datona models?

Rolex made known its first chronograph models around 1937.  In 1960, Rolex gave the chronograph line a major facelift with the introduction of the Read the rest of this entry »

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28
Jul
Rodium Plated Bangle Bracelets Pair Costume Jewelry in Indian-Style 2.3 inches

Rodium Plated Bangle Bracelets Pair Costume Jewelry in Indian-Style 2.3 inches (Jewelry)
By ShalinCraft

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